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Rosehips and Peppers. Amaranth Road Studio. October 2011 |

This year Thanksgiving happened at my place. With no chance of going home to Ontario for the harvest holiday and with my mother-in-law out of town it became clear that if I wanted a celebration it was going to have to be one of my own making. I looked at this as an opportunity to develop new traditions. With our baby shifting restlessly within me I set out to prepare a meal that would mean something--that would reference Thanksgivings past and create something new in honour of my emerging family.
On my mother’s side of the family Thanksgiving is all about the food. Food is the medium through which we unify ourselves and show our deep appreciation for all the love shared between us. So when I began to plan my own Thanksgiving, food was at its core. A tricky thing indeed since I had to avoid eggs, dairy, and gluten! This is where the newness shone through. I was determined to make all my old favourites in allergy free versions. I leaned heavily on the magazine Living Without. The fall edition included a fabulous collection of Thanksgiving feast recipes. I eventually settled on the following menu:
Turkey. You just can’t have Thanksgiving without turkey. I know that some modern types eschew turkey for more exotic things--ham, lamb, maybe even something concocted out of tofu, but in my book turkey is key. It’s the armature upon which the rest of Thanksgiving dinner is built up. I got a frozen 15 pound turkey on sale from Safeway. I spent over a week worrying about it. I worried that it wouldn’t defrost on time. I imagined myself having to pull Dave-esque tricks, like going at the thing with a hair dryer. I worried that it wouldn’t cook properly, that it would be either raw like the fateful Christmas turkey at Grandma’s many years ago or dried out in the fashion of National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation. To this end I purchased two extra thermometers on top of the two I already owned. In the end I had two oven thermometers to make sure my oven was actually registering 350 degrees, one meat thermometer to leave in the turkey throughout its roasting time, and one instant read thermometer to corroborate the readings of the other one. I wasn’t leaving this to chance and believed that temperature science could help me. It seems to have worked. I was able to note that my turkey was cooking faster than anticipated, respond by turning down the oven temperature, and end up with a perfectly moist but completely cooked turkey at just about the correct time! Insanity paid off this time.
Stuffing: Stuffing is essential. This stuffing needs to be made of bread. While sausage stuffing can be tasty, nothing beats the soft comfort of a bread stuffing slathered in gravy. I used the recipe from Living Without that involved gluten free bread, sausage, and pear. I made it in a pan the day before to save time and my husband gave it rave reviews.
Pumpkin Pie and Coconut Whipped Cream: This terrified me more than anything. I had a recipe from the Allergy Free Baker’s Handbook that would involve making the crust and filling from scratch. I baked feverishly keeping a close eye on my crust so that it wouldn’t burn. I had a gelatin scare at one point. I wasn’t sure if “one packet” was a standard measurement. When my pie still wasn’t firm hours later I was scared that I had used too little. Miraculously it was gelled the next day and I was able to breath a sigh of relief. I highly recommend the Allergy Free Baker’s Handbook for anyone struggling with any of the seven major allergens.
Potatoes and Brussels Sprouts: I simply roasted these with some sea salt and turkey drippings. Simple!
Gravy: I used Living Without again and made the pear and rum turkey gravy and it was amazing.
The three family guests brought salad and appetizers to round out our meal and so we gathered for the feast. My apartment smelled like a holiday. I set my table with great care. I bought flowers. I set out a selection of harvest themed needle felting projects. I really believe in these details. Life is so short on ritual these days. I think that we overlook the importance of holidays and family events. These days are glue. They are the ceremonies that cement us together as family units, even as they come with inevitable mishaps and perhaps even disasters. I wanted my first Thanksgiving to say something. I wanted it to speak a language of culinary love. Food isn’t just for the body, it’s for the mind and the soul. Through food we nourish ourselves and those we feed on a physical and emotional level. Or at least it is so in my idealistic literary world where everything has a meaning beyond the literal. My husband might disagree. Perhaps to him a pie is just a pie. To me it is a manifestation of my desire to care for those I love. My worry over gelatin is a worry about my ability to provide something perfect, something worthy of the people gathering around my table to share the fall’s bounty.
As we sat at the table I felt warm. I felt a sense of deep accomplishment. Unfortunately it’s not really socially acceptable to rave about your own creations. You can’t very well dig into your own piece of pie and say “Man! This pie is poetry. This pie is a labour of love. This pie tastes like sweet brown sugary, cinnamon and ginger infused success.” So I enjoyed my meal quietly, enjoyed the assembled company, enjoyed the strange sensation of being poised on the brink of motherhood, transitioning from being the child to being the parent, from the one served to the one who serves, from the one nourished to the one with the unique privilege of nourishing and watching the well fed glow of contentedness spread around the table.
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Table Setting. Amaranth Road Studio. October 2011 |
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